|
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The Savoy & more.... I stepped off the plane at London's Heathrow Airport, and before I could say, "Cab please," a distinguished looking man with white hair and smiling face said, "This way, Miss Churchill." I didn't have to wonder where he was escorting me, for his uniform and top hat had the name Savoy inscribed on the band. I couldn't help but smile to myself and think, "Humm, they certainly know how to made a traveler feel like a movie star." Soon he had gathered my luggage and put me in a car heading for The Strand, which is the theatrical district of London, and the location of the legendary Savoy Hotel. London is constantly changing and improving. Now they have a special lane for taxis and carriers from the Airport, so it does speed up the drive into the city. When we went by Buckingham Palace, I saw the Queen's flag was blowing in the breeze, which was a signal she was in residence. As always their were colorful flowers in full boom, and tourists trying to get a glimpse of some excitement going on. We drove passed Trafalgar Square, with its huge black lions guarding the statue of Lord Nelson that soars into the air. This is a popular landmark with visitors, and like so many other times, many children were feeding the pigeons who are always sitting along the steps, or even resting on Lord Nelson's hat. Nearby was the National Gallery which I visited a few years back at the invitation of American Architect Robert Venturi. Known the world over as one of the finest art galleries in the world, it was decided they needed to build an addition. At first, there was talk the new wing was going to be a big departure-- ultra modern great contrast from the original edifice. It was then Prince Charles made that now famous remark. Something to the effect that a modem addition to the Gallery was like adding a large carbuncle on the nose of a great lady. That's when Venturi with his seamless addition became "the architect"
to build the Sainsbury Wing to the National Gallery. Soon we turned into the private Strand entrance to the hotel. My driver reminded, it is the first and only street in Britain where traffic travels on the right hand side, as it does in the U.S. As he was unloading the luggage, I paused in front of this elegant
building, and looked up at the figures in gleaming silver that guard
the entrance.
It was at the Savoy that my relative, Sir Winston Churchill,
so often lunched during his terms as prime minister. The hotel even
named a special meeting area for him. It was here the late Princess
Diana came to address many charity luncheons. It was here Sean Connery
filmed scenes for a recent movie.
The Savoy first opened its doors on August 6, 1889. Since that date, it has hosted royalty, presidents, heads of industry, film stars - most every VIP you can think of has stayed or dined here. I had tea with Michael Shepherd, General Manager, and he filled me in on some of the hotel's history. George Gershwin premiered "Rhapsody in Blue" to British audiences at The Savoy... the first fireproof eiderdown mattress was provided Lionel Barrymore who had a habit of reading in bed while he chain-smoked... Russian Prima Ballerina Anne Pavlova first danced in cabaret at The Savoy, and Rudolph Valentino's initial appearance at the Savoy was at the afternoon dances. More recently Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones danced cheek to cheek to the music of The Piccadilly Orchestra at the Savoy's Thames Foyer. Elizabeth Taylor also has memories of The Savory. She spent her
honeymoon at the Savoy with first husband, Nicky Hilton. Sir Laurence
Olivier first laid eyes on Vivien Leigh at a party held at the Savoy.
Elizabeth Taylor was again at the Savoy with her new co-star, Richard
Burton when the hotel hosted a ball for the cast of the movie, "Cleopatra."
The Beatles met Bob Dylan at this hotel, and Elton John let his bath
overflow and caused the first "flood" at the Savoy.
Settling in at a suite overlooking the Thames, I was delighted to see the famous Millennium clock across the river.' One of the best reasons for enjoying the Savoy London, is Chef
Anton Edelmann. But, to give the proper title, I should say Anton Edelmaun
Maitre Chef des Cuisines at the Savoy since 1982.
He began his career as a teenage apprentice in Ulm, a small Bavarian village near Munich. He has worked for the world's most renowned Chefs including Anton Mosimann at the Dorchester in London and Hotel de la Paix in Geneva. Today, he heads one of the largest kitchens in the world. He re designed the hotel's kitchen, and 18 months later it was re-opened by HM Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. With 75 chefs responsible to him, he runs a tight ship. His passion is the famed River Room Restaurant, which overlooks the Thames. He has won a reputation for excellent food and imaginative cuisine. He was one of the first to introduce UK farmers to the idea of organic farming. He is also a reservoir of humor and patience. I have had the pleasure of dining with Anton in his office in the kitchen at the Savoy. Such an invitation is not to be taken lightly, for it is the height of delicious delight when a noted chef asks you to dine in the kitchen. Edelmann has published a dozen books, tries to write on some specialized aspects of cooking each year, and always succeeds. Last year he published two books! They range from Creative Cuisine, to Perfect Pasties, to Music and Menus for Romance, to Taking Tea at The Savoy. He admits he enjoying eating "anywhere and anything as long as it is well prepared." If it's at the Savoy, Edelmann delivers a five diamond triumph! There was so much to see and do in London-the new Tate Museum had opened, the Vinopulis Wine Museum was ready for guests, and the Royal Opera House had completed its renovation and had a great list of operas and ballets to enjoy. Next morning we were off to see Waddesdon Manor, originally the Rothschild's family home. It's a lovely hour or so drive from London through the English countryside. I'd chatted with Lord Jacob Rothschild who is now the Chairman of the National Trust's Management Committee at Waddesdon. Earlier in the month, we had both been in Jerusalem to attend the Pritizker Architectural Prize ceremonies. Rothschild is a member of the Pritzker Jury which selects a yearly honoree. It is regarded as the highest honor an architect can receive. At that time, we talked about some of the restorations being made at Waddesdon, which was built by his ancestors. I'd never seen Waddesdon Manor, so I decided to spend my first day in the U.K. driving out to the countryside. Here I met Robert Seldie, who kindly became my guide. "Waddesdon is one of the England's best kept secrets," he explained. "I have lived in London for years and never knew it existed. Since it is now owned by the National Trust, but managed by a committee chaired by Lord Rothschild, it is becoming better known. Last year 16,000 visitors came to see it. They were all in awe of the fabulous Manor, not only its grounds, but inside it is fully fumished in the most beautiful 18th century furniture, some made for Louis XV and Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette." The Manor was built at the end of the 19th century by Baron Ferdinand
de Rothschild. "Most visitors are amazed to see what resembles a 16
century French chateau, surrounded by formal gardens, hidden in the
heart of the English countryside."
Since it was still early in the morning, we decided to stroll
the gardens. There was a slight chill in the air, and the dew still
hung heavy on the flowers and velvet green grass. There are areas where
you feel you're in some heavenly forest, for as far as the eye can see
are towering trees. For the Millennium celebration, 300 oak trees were
additionally planted. Other areas are beautifully manicured and colored
with flowers that are planted to keep pace with the seasons. As Seldie
pointed out, "At certain peak blooming times, there's literally a curtain
of flowers."
Of course, everywhere there is exquisite statuary, plus working
fountains that remind of a French palace. Suddenly, I heard the song
of a bird, it became louder as we approached the manor house. "It's
the aviary," Seldie explained. It was a colorful "residence" for a variety
of birds, especially lively was the addition of the golden finch.
Seldie, who was an actor at one time, was the perfect person
for a guide. He splashed each description with a golden brush of eloquence.
He told how Queen Victoria had visited Waddesdon and was quite intrigued
by the massive gardens. Her interest was diluted when the owner insisted,
"Don't step on the flowers."
Waddesdon in 1894 also had electricity, which Queen Victoria's palace did not. Also its 19th Century silver collection is rated with the Royal Collection and the Wallace Collection. Some experts place it as the finest in the world. If you're getting the idea that this is a "must see" visit when you're in England, you're getting the right message. Lord Rothschild had commissioned painter Jean Marc Winckler to create a "family tree." He painted small likeness of 42 of their homes through Europe during the 19th and 20thcenturies. You can imagine how much space this large painting covered! You'll notice I don't have photos of the inside of the manor house. That's because photographs are not allowed. "Because of the rarity of the furniture and the textiles, we are only allowed 1,000 hours of daylight in the house each year." I can tell you it's well worth the journey from London. One of the smallest treasures is a tiny box owned by Madame du Pompadour. It has a painting of two of her little dogs on the box cover. It's so small it almost disappears in the palm of a child. There are a "museum" of paintings, including Gainsborough and Reynolds, elegant clocks and magnificent desks. Some are so heavy when they went to refurbish the house, they couldn't lift them, so they just had to build an enormous box around them until the restoration was completed. To give you an idea of Waddesdon Manor and the Rothschild
Convincing, isn't it? * * * * * |
||
