Les Baux De Provence

Even in prehistoric times there was a rocky outcrop in this area. It’s as if nature made a high-rising fort to protect the hilltop residents from their foes, to serve as a look-out, a view to report what was happening, or about to happen in the surrounding countryside.

In the third and second centuries BC, the massive rock was inhabited. The Greeks, then the Romans were hilltop occupants. One family took over the area, and claimed to be descended from one of the three wise men. France purchased Les Baux in 1642.

We were indeed fortunate to be there when the "mistral" wasn’t blowing. This fierce wind can howl through the ruins of the medieval citadel and send the land flying through the air. Any wonder that today most of the residents and luxury hotels are in the more protected valley down below?
	My guide, Jacqueline and I make it to the top.

Naturally, we wanted to see this citadel, so we started climbing up the rocky road, that wound past the shops and restaurants to the peak. A teacher with some eager 12 year olds was having a field trip. Wished I understood French better for the kids were all transfixed listening to her story about the fort.

I really felt I was part mountain goat by the time we reached the top, but the view was worth it. Also the remains of a civilization long gone were fascinating. My guide, Jacqueline, told me that "bau" in the Provencal language means a rocky escarpment in the shape of a spur. Certainly this eagle’s nest was well named for it was both a natural fortress and a place of refuge. For centuries, the inhabitants of Les Baux called themselves a "race of eaglets that were never vassals."

"Where are the shops?," I ask as we continue our tour.

In 1822, a chemist discovered a purple/red mineral, which he named bauxite. Alumina is extracted from bauxite for the production of aluminium. That industry, a quarry was closed a few years ago. It was 1966, that the town came under the protection of the French Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of the Environment. Now, the village is coming back to life, and the legends again whisper in the restored walls.

When Jacqueline suggested lunch, I said, "Mais oui!" We’d worked up quite an appetite. Down one of the stone-lined streets, she pointed to Café Cinarca. We sat down on the terrace under an umbrella to protect us from the warm sun. We noted a group of 10 ordering, they had an English-French dictionary in one hand, and the menu in the other. "Oh, I smiled, you’re my kind of people". Indeed they were. They were six couples, graduates from the University of California, in San Francisco. We had a great time talking, since I’m from their southern branch, UCLA.

I ordered soup, my friend beef stew. You may think this wasn’t too inspired, but you’ve never tasted soup or stew made in Provence—all fresh vegetables, steaming, free of heavy oil. It was terrific!

I met the restaurant’s owner, Patrice Delpech, when I walked in. Now, I wanted to meet the chef. It turned out to be his wife, Mariane, a lovely brunette who was magic in the kitchen. Patrice had been with Le Meridan Hotels for 19 years, his last post was in the West Indies. "I decided to retire, and Mariane and I had always loved the village of Les Baux, and had always wanted to have our own restaurant. So here we are on top of the world."

We were headed back to the car, but first a bit of shopping. After such an exhilarating day, I had to get a few souvenirs! Imagine my surprise when I found I could wear a blouse one size smaller than when my travels began. It’s all that walking, climbing, racing about that did it. What a lovely way to go!

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