Arles, France
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Arles attracted painters like Van Gogh, Gauguin and Picasso. Its rich colors, trees, river and statuary make it a must-visit place in Provence. It is also the birthplace of contemporary fashion designer Christian Lacroix. |
"If you pronounce the ‘s’ in Arles," Jennifer LeCote explained, "it’s a give-away that you are not French." Jennifer is an Englishwoman, who fell in love and married a Frenchman, and moved to Arles (drop that ‘s’!)
| We met at the Hotel Jules Cesar in the early evening to discuss our next day’s walking tour. "Be sure and wear comfy shoes," she reminded, "for we are going to some of the places where Van Gogh lived and painted." We decided to check out our rooms, and then have dinner at the hotel. In France, dining is usually around 9 p.m. The minute you ask for a 7 p.m. reservation, the maitre d’ asks, "Are you American?" We settled for 8 p.m. That was a good idea for it gave us time to learn about the Jules Cesar. |
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Transplanted Britisher, Jennifer Lacote, took us on a tour of Arles. |
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In the 17th century it was a Carmelite convent, and two
centuries later converted into a luxury hotel. Today, its elegant chapel recalls its
original use. Since it is a protected historical site, it was evident much care was given to turn it into a hotel. That evening a baroque concert was scheduled for the chapel, so heavenly music again flowed through the corridors. |
The breakfast area at the Hotel Jules Cesar, once a Carmelite Convent, reflects its former heritage with its stone walls and ceiling, narrow area, and arched windows. |
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| Arles is surrounded by history. Even the Forum and their Bull Fight Arena looks like a work of ancient art. |
My room was on a corner, it had thick stone walls on two sides, which reminded me these were once cells where the nuns slept. But, in true Provence spirit, the other two walls were painted a lively terra cotta.
The dining room was large and formal. It was the four star, Lou Marques, renowned for its regional specialties such as Saint Pierre fish with tiny peas and mushrooms, it fabulous cheese and wines, and the desserts—savarin a la crème legere et fruits frais or macaroon with chocolate in pistachio coulee.
The next morning we had breakfast at the Cloitre, which still resembled the cloistered cells of the convent—stone walls, long and narrow room and arched windows.
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This café, painted by Van Gogh, and frequented by Picasso, is still popular today. |
Jennifer was there bright and early, and we were off to see this Roman city that fascinated Van Gogh, Aubagne, and French film maker Marcel Pagnol.
History touched us on every side—the splendour of the Saint Trophime Cloisters, the classical elegance of the City Hall, and the 16th and 17th century houses served as jewels woven into the fabric of Arles.
Jennifer reminded, "It was 46 B.C., that Julius Cesar founded a colony, later protected by walls like other Roman cities of the day. Some convents were built outside the city walls near the Rhone River. Today, the modern city has spread out in all directions, yet the historic center remains."
| Vincent Van Gogh arrived in Arles in February 1888. It marked the
beginning of a period of intense and passionate activity. According to Jennifer, "His
stay in Arles represents the most productive period in the life. He painted and drew more
than 300 works in the space of only 15 months. Our first stop was to see where Van Gogh was inspired to do his famous bridge paintings. Le point de Langois aux lavandieres. On this day, with its blue sky, and even bluer water, one could understand why he would choose such a place to paint. In his day, there were women along the banks of the river washing clothes, so it was a colorful scene with its green grass and flowers, and the buzz of the women talking as they worked. |
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The bridge once painted by Vincent Van Gogh. |
Ever accurate, Jennifer explained that some of the bridges were destroyed in World War II, so the bridge had to be rebuilt, but it was in the same place when Van Gogh painted it.
At a leisurely pace, we’d walk, or Francis would meet us to drive us to those areas which were too far, and we’d see the gardens Van Gogh painted, the café, the famous yellow house. He was so in love with the sun-spashed village, he convinced his friend and fellow artist Paul Gauguin. to visit him and bring his canvas.
The pace changed when we neared Place du Forum, where many artists including Picasso came. The reason is Les Arenes, the huge arena where bull fighting takes place. Picasso had vowed he’d never return to Spain while Franco was in power, instead he came to Arles to be with his gypsy friends and to enjoy the bullfights.
Today, it’s still very popular, only now they have two types of fights. In one scenario, the bull is killed. In the other, the animal parades around the arena and the matador has to free a braid which is placed between the bull’s horns. When the matador succeeds, the bull is released. The animal is retired and goes back to the farm. When he dies, there is a plaque put over his grave stating he had performed at the arena.
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Who would guess this flower-decked area was where Van Gogh spent some of his last weeks? |
Our next stop was a Romanesque cathedral famous for its sculptures and its façade depicting the Last Judgement. It’s the Cathedral and the Cloister of Saint-Trophime Eglise, which represents the 12th century.
In the new movie, "Ronin," you’ll see a great deal of Arles. It stars Robert DeNiro and Jean Reno, and was directed by award winning John Frankenheimer. Jennifer told me, many of the villagers are in the movie. "Also, if you don’t drop your popcorn, you can see my left elbow in a crowd scene."
Arles is very proud of a native son, renown fashion designer, Christian Lacroix. He still has a home here, and also a store where you can buy some of his women’s fashions.
In true, Jennifer frankness, she added, "Just out of school, Lacroix took the test to be a museum director. He failed, so he went to Paris, where he became one of the City of Lights most successful designers. He has remained true to Arles, for his colors are the bright and happy tones which is a trademark of Provence.
Sitting under a shady tree, alongside the Rhone River, we enjoyed a little rest and relaxation. Francis brought the car and we drove to what looked like a lovely flower bedecked chateau. It was the mental hospital where Van Gogh was sent a short time before he committed suicide.
